Watch Movements Explained

Have you ever looked at your wrist and wondered what makes your watch tick? Behind every second-hand strike or tick, there is an engine of the watch: the movement. The beat that keeps time moving and winds everything from the hour to your calendar.

Watch movements, or calibers, are the magic of miniaturized engineering, and learning about these little engines can assist in selecting the suitable watch for your style, requirements, and budget.

From the classic tick of mechanical watches to the accuracy of quartz and the prestige of Swiss watchmaking, every movement has a story to tell. In this in-depth guide, we discuss the kinds of watch movements—mechanical, automatic, and quartz—while breaking down the legendary reputations of Swiss and Japanese movements.

When it comes to watches, the movement is the heart that keeps everything ticking.

What is a Watch Movement?

A watch movement, or caliber, is the engine of a watch. Caliber is what keeps the watch ticking, operating the hands and complications (chronograph and date), and maintaining accurate time.

There are three primary types of watch movements:

• Mechanical (manual wind)

• Automatic (self-winding mechanical)

• Quartz (battery)-powered)

Each of these movements has its unique functions, advantages, and user experiences.

Mechanical Watch Movement (Manual Wind)

A mechanical movement is the oldest and most traditional type of watch mechanism, running without a battery, and must be wound manually using the crown. The power comes from a mainspring; as the spring slowly unwinds, it transfers energy through a series of gears. An escapement mechanism regulates the energy to ensure consistent movement.

Things to Know

While this handcrafted, lasting masterpiece does not require a battery. However, it may need regular winding and could be less accurate. If you are someone who does manual work, think twice before buying a mechanical watch, as they may be sensitive to shock or magnets.

These types of watches are best suited for collectors, watch enthusiasts, and someone who admires traditional craftsmanship.

Automatic Watch Movement

An automatic movement, often referred to as a self-winding mechanism, is a type that uses the natural motion of the wearer's wrist to wind the mainspring, which powers the watch. It features a rotor inside the watch that spins as you move your wrist and winds the mainspring automatically. This mechanism also uses an escapement, gear train, and balance wheel like a mechanical watch.

Things to Consider:

It's a blend of traditional craftsmanship and convenience; this type of movement does not need daily manual winding. The life of these watches is longer when well serviced and maintained, which should be done every 3 to 5 years.

As it is self-winding, the wearer needs to wear the watch regularly, or it should be put in a winder. While it gives you the taste of luxury, an automatic watch can be expensive compared to traditional mechanical watches.

Popular Brands That Make Automatic Watches

Rolex

Each automatic watch is made from high-quality materials like 904L stainless steel and 18k gold. They are carefully assembled by skilled watchmakers who complete a multi-step process, including machining, polishing, and rigorous testing for accuracy and water resistance.

Omega

A brand with a strong heritage, is known for its Moonwatch and high-quality automatic movements. The manufacturing process involves the coaxial escapement technology, which enhances precision and reduces maintenance.

Seiko

The brand has its unique movements, such as the Orient and Seiko 5 series. Seiko utilizes innovative technology, including the Spring Drive, which combines mechanical and quartz technology for superior accuracy.

Orient

The watches are known for their reliability and classic designs, produced using skilled artisans who assemble each piece carefully. Their automatic movements are designed to provide excellent performance and value.

Tissot

Creates a wide range of automatic watches blending Swiss precision with innovative designs. Their manufacturing process combines traditional watchmaking techniques with modern technology, ensuring high-quality movements.

Quartz Watch Movement

A quartz movement is powered by a battery and uses a small quartz crystal to maintain accurate timekeeping. The battery sends an electric current through the quartz crystal, causing it to vibrate at a frequency of 32,768 times per second. These vibrations are then converted into pulses that drive the movement of the watch hands.

Pros and Cons

This watch features highly accurate details at very affordable prices, and there is no need to worry about the battery since it will last for a year or two. These watches are very accurate and cost-effective but do not have special mechanical features and are also not treated as collectibles because they are mass-produced and easily available.

Best suited for: everyday users, budget-conscious individuals, and first-time watch owners.

Japanese Movement Watches

Japanese movement watches have movements that are made in Japan. The Japanese watch movements have set a niche in the horological world as reliable, efficient, and affordable. Japanese movements are produced in large quantities; however, the focus on precise engineering has made them popular among watch enthusiasts and everyday wearers.

Renowned Brands:

• Seiko: A trailblazer in the watch industry, particularly noted for its pioneering role in the development of quartz movement technology. Seiko's ability to create high-quality watches at various price points makes it accessible to a wide range of consumers.

• Citizen: This solar-powered movement harnesses light from any source, converting it into energy to power the watch. As a result, Eco-Drive watches are not only environmentally friendly but also virtually maintenance-free.

• Miyota: A subsidiary of Citizen, Miyota has become synonymous with quality movements, especially among microbrands and independent watchmakers.

Japanese movements are celebrated for their outstanding features:

• Accuracy and Durability: Designed to keep time with remarkable precision, making them trustworthy companions.

• Variety: Available in both quartz and automatic forms, these movements cater to differing preferences. Quartz movements are typically favored for their convenience, while automatic movements appeal to traditionalists.

• Cost-Effectiveness: The combination of quality and affordability means you don’t have to compromise on performance for price.

Why Choose Japanese Movements?

Japanese movements are a fantastic option for anyone seeking a blend of performance, innovation, and affordability. These movements are designed to perform well over time and are equipped with technologies that enhance the user experience. Whether you're looking for a solar-powered watch from Citizen or a rugged diver from Seiko, you can rest assured that you’re investing in durability and quality.

Swiss Movement Watches

Swiss movement watches are seen as the standard of horology—an art form that blends intricate craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology. These movements are typically hand-assembled in Switzerland, a country with high-quality watchmaking, and each one must undergo rigorous testing to ensure it meets the highest standards of precision and reliability.

When it comes to Swiss movements, several brands stand out for their heritage and innovation:

• ETA (Swatch Group): A leader in the watch movement industry, ETA provides movements for a variety of luxury and mid-range watch brands.

• Sellita: Known for its high-quality movements, Sellita offers an alternative to ETA and is praised for its reliability and craftsmanship.

• Rolex: Beyond just luxury, Rolex movements are renowned for their accuracy and durability, with in-house crafted components that ensure excellent performance.

• Tudor: Often considered the more accessible sibling of Rolex, Tudor offers quality Swiss movements at a slightly lower price point without compromising on elegance.

• Longines: With a rich history, Longines combines tradition with innovation, producing movements that are both stylish and precise.

Swiss movements boast a variety of features that distinguish them from others:

• Precision-engineered parts: Every component is designed with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring reliability and accuracy.

• Hand-assembled: The craftsmanship involved in assembling these watches guarantees that each piece receives the individual care and attention it deserves.

• Certified by COSC: Many Swiss movements are certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, a prestigious quality seal that certifies their accuracy.

Swiss Movement Pros & Cons 

Pros:

Investing in a Swiss movement watch comes with several advantages:

• Unmatched prestige and quality: Owning a Swiss watch is a badge of honor for many watch enthusiasts, representing the apex of craftsmanship and design.

• Excellent resale value: Due to their reputation and quality, Swiss movement watches tend to retain value well over time, making them a worthwhile investment.

• Long-lasting performance: With proper care, these watches can last for generations, often becoming cherished family heirlooms.

Cons:  

However, these luxury timepieces also come with some drawbacks:

• High price tag: The craftsmanship and materials that go into Swiss movements make them a more significant financial investment.

• Servicing can be expensive: Maintenance and servicing of Swiss movement watches typically require professionals with specialized expertise, which can add to the overall cost of ownership.

Swiss movement watches are ideal for watch collectors, industry professionals, and luxury buyers. Whether you’re looking to expand your collection or make a statement with a sophisticated timepiece, Swiss movements offer quality and prestige that stand the test of time.

Rolex Watch Movements

Rolex is renowned for its luxurious aesthetics and exceptional craftsmanship, particularly when it comes to its watch movements. Crafted entirely in-house at their facilities in Switzerland, these automatic movements boast durability and precision, qualities that have become synonymous with the brand.

Iconic Movements of Rolex

Among the numerous movements developed by Rolex, a few have become iconic within the watch community:

Caliber 3135: This movement has been a staple in Rolex's lineup, featured in popular models such as the Submariner and Datejust for decades. Its reliability and performance have made it a trusted choice for watch enthusiasts.

Caliber 3235: The latest generation movement that builds on the legacy of its predecessors, the Caliber 3235 is celebrated for its enhanced power reserve, offering better efficiency and longevity in timekeeping.

Caliber 4130: Found exclusively in the Rolex Daytona chronograph, this movement represents the pinnacle of chronograph technology, combining precision timing with robust functionality.

Innovations in Rolex Movements

Parachrom Hairspring: This feature enhances the watch's resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, significantly increasing its reliability in various conditions.

Chronergy Escapement: Designed to optimize efficiency and performance, the Chronergy escapement provides improved energy transfer, which translates to better accuracy and a longer power reserve.

Why Are Rolex Movements Special?

What sets Rolex's movements apart from others in the luxury watch market is their rigorous testing process. Each movement undergoes two meticulous evaluations: first, it achieves COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certification, which guarantees its precision. Following this, Rolex subjects the movements to its own Superlative Chronometer standards, ensuring an exceptional level of quality. 

They stand as a testament to the brand's commitment to quality and precision, making each Rolex watch a prized possession for enthusiasts and collectors alike.

Mechanical vs. Automatic vs. Quartz - Side-by-Side Comparison

 

When choosing a watch, consider these key factors.

• Lifestyle: If you’re busy and need something reliable, a quartz watch is ideal. Known for their accuracy and low maintenance, they fit seamlessly into a hectic routine. Alternatively, if you enjoy casual wear and appreciate intricate watchmaking, give an automatic watch a try. They wind with your movement and offer a more relaxed, charming option.

• Budget: For those on a budget or just starting, quartz watches are affordable and offer great style. Conversely, if you're a collector ready to invest, Swiss mechanical watches are a wonderful choice, reflecting craftsmanship and tradition.

• Usage: For low-maintenance needs, quartz is best for everyday wear. If you want a timepiece that adds character while still being durable, an automatic watch could be perfect. Both styles can work well in daily life, so choose one that aligns with your lifestyle and personal taste.

Swiss Movement Watch vs Japanese Movement Watch

While the Swiss watches offer luxury and legacy, Japanese movements deliver dependable performance without the premium price tag.  

How to Choose the Right Movement

1. Set a Budget

• Quartz: Great for those looking for reliable, cost-effective options

• Mechanical/Automatic: Ideal for long-term investment and heritage

2. Consider Usage

• Quartz: Best for occasional or daily wear without fuss

• Automatic: Great for daily wear if you want a blend of elegance and engineering

• Mechanical: Choose if you appreciate tradition and don’t mind winding

3. Factor in Style

• Vintage or classic enthusiasts will love mechanical watches

• Modern professionals may lean toward automatic watches

• Casual dressers or first-timers can start with quartz

4. Think About Collectability

• Mechanical and Swiss automatic watches often hold or increase value

• Quartz watches are less collectible but very functional

Watches: The Tale of Your Time

Watch movements are more than just mechanics—they are a fusion of science, history, and art. Whether it’s the graceful sweep of a mechanical hand or the pinpoint accuracy of a quartz tick, every movement offers something special. From the affordable innovation of Japanese quartz to the unmatched precision of a Rolex, there's a perfect movement for every wrist.

Use this guide to find the one that fits your lifestyle, personality, and appreciation for the craftsmanship behind every timepiece.

Take your time. 

Explore. 

And remember: behind every great watch, there's a movement that brings it to life.